From Msotra to Mzansi: The remarkable resurrection of Jonathan D courtesy of Ntokozo Xulu

Staple brands have always been a part of township culture, from the iconic Converse All-Star to the premium Carvela also known as the Original Top Skipper. Yet there is a sudden emergence of a local underdog taking every corner of the street by its reigns and forcing it to recognise its prowess. Jonathan D which was widely regarded as a brand for old-timers and taxi drivers, has quickly risen to become one of the most recognised brands in the SA youth market and it's all due to the input of one young man who refuses to conform to a typical approach to footwear design and overall capsule configurations.

One such man is Ntokozo Xulu, owner of NTKZ Studio and designer for Jonathan D clothing. We managed to catch up with him and try to understand how he achieved such big leaps in the industry while remaining incognito as the work spoke for itself.

So not a lot of people know who you are and from what I've figured that was an intentional decision but in a short sentence can you please tell us who is Ntokozo Xulu, where is he from and where did you grow up?

Ntokozo Xulu is a multi-faceted creative born and bred in Soweto, specialising in visual arts and fashion design.

Being a Creative Director is an easily misunderstood occupation, what do you think it entails to become a Creative Director and what characteristics do you feel are most important for such a role?

Professionally I am not yet a Creative Director. I am currently refining my design etiquette and what entails being a designer is that you need to have an eclectic artistic ability, passion and conviction towards your work, excellent decision-making skills and a strong intuition when it comes to style.

We have a sudden re-emergence when it comes to Jonathan D's presence in the streets, and some would argue that you played a very vital role in how this has come about, how does one go about unlocking a brand's potential and making it appealing to the mass population?

Dissecting what it was, embracing what it is, and then moving towards what it can be at its highest level while still paying homage to its core elements. In Jonathan D's case, the goal was to bring newness and vibrance to its products and an approach which would boost its appeal and reach a more diverse community from its original target market.

Your relationship with Deedstreak seems very plutonic, how did you guys connect and what's the most valuable lesson you've learnt from working with such an OG?

Lol yes, it is plutonic; we connected in Braamfontein in 2015 during my first year of college, he had a streetwear store that housed his independent brand called STREEKS which I gravitated towards and ended up designing for. We've known each other since then.

"Never be afraid to re-invent yourself," is something amongst many other life and career lessons I've learnt from him.

Do you believe fashion and art are the same thing? “Art” is obviously the mother of it all, fashion for me is just another sub-medium of artistic expression that I relate to. So yes.

For someone with such an influential role you seem to enjoy a very low-key life, how do you get to that point of being content with letting the work speak for itself and excluding yourself from the noise? I think low-key has always been part of my personality; I have never had the capacity to be the front cover of noise as I'm probably too busy designing it in the back end. I find pleasure in laying back and witnessing the work cause chaos.

What do you want to achieve with your work? Excellence is always the goal, so when I see myself getting better than before that's the ultimate drug to keep exploring the limits of what I'm doing and be able to push beyond them to stay far from the mediocre.

What inspires your work? Innovation and Quality are the core elements of my designs and who I am; not forgetting always having a maverick approach to pushing things even further to get to where I've never been before.

Did you study footwear design specifically or was it something you picked up from interest? Footwear design is something I picked up from interest because I have always immersed myself in fashion holistically, I just happen to be more invested in footwear lately.

When you started NTKZ STUDIO what was your biggest dream? To have one of the best independent production houses that focuses on fashion and multimedia while curating the resources to limitlessly communicate my visions thoroughly as well as for clients.

Your designs have a very classy undertone does that speak to where you want to see yourself in the future?

I've always liked incorporating some sophistication in everything I do. Even if it's something street and fun, there will be a level of intricate artistry.

What’s your most significant achievement to date?

Seeing my designs almost every day on the streets & photoshoots on billboards.

If you could choose a mentor for the rest of your life who would it be and why? Pharrell Williams, because he has managed to maintain a Triple C (cool, calm and collected) life while keeping his work exceptional, also being such a well-rounded artist, everything he has done is inspiring on a global scale and will leave a timeless legacy.

What are your plans for the remainder of the year? Anything crazy that we should be expecting? Nothing CRAZY but just more evolution in JD. and some cool passion projects under NTKZ STUDIO in collaboration with creatives and friends; as you mentioned I am low-key; it'll be quiet until it's all done to put it out there. if there's anything near and about to happen, you will be one of the first to know.

What’s the one thing that you think no one can ever prepare for when it comes to life in the creative industry? Unexpected Reactions from an Audience. When they're not that great you just have to keep going back to the drawing board and spend unexpected efforts at your own expense which can set you back a bit. When they're overwhelmingly great you have to keep the pace up unprepared and make it work so you don't lose momentum.

Finish off this sentence, Ntokozo is a? Visionary.

After talking with Ntokozo one can already conclude that this is not the final chapter of this modern tale, trailblazers never tire, they let the work speak for itself while they lurk in the shadows. Can't wait to see what's in store for the upcoming near future.